Well, the children are tucked all snug in their beds — not sleeping yet, of course, as that would be asking for a miracle — so the time has come to close the curtain on a riotously fun Wine Advent experience and give some kudos to the bottles and people that made it all happen. The first thank you obviously goes to the remarkable team at Bricks Wine Company, who eagerly took on this half-bottle Advent challenge and then went all out foraging through a not-all-that-overflowing 375 mL market to put together 24 quality bottles reflective of their identity as a shop and their value proposition to their customers. Way to go — all of your effort clearly showed through over the course of this month. I would also be remiss not to thank my ultra-awesome co-collaborators Dan Steeves and Ray Lamontagne for their blogging prowess and oh-so-necessary assistance that allowed PnP to forge through two parallel booze Advent calendars at the same time. I’m hoping this won’t be the last time you see their work on this page.
As for the bottles that shone brightest, I asked each Wine Advent writer to give me their thoughts about their 3 favourite wines of the 2017 calendar and separately made up my own podium of winners for comparison purposes. There was a lot of jostling in the silver and bronze spots, but the gold medallist was a runaway unanimous victor:
Ray Lamontagne’s Top 3 Wines
1. 2011 Raventos i Blanc “De La Finca” (Day 12): Buzzsaw acidity is the lens through which all that spiced sourdough and fruit is focused.
2. 2015 Frog’s Leap Zinfandel (Day 15): A down-home BBQ in a bramble patch.
3. 2010 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant (Day 22): Peppered blueberries baked into a gingersnap, this can hover by anytime.
DARK HORSE – 2014 Domaine Vacheron Sancerre Rouge (Day 20): Oh look, another Pinot from…Sancerre?? Don’t injure yourself on all those stony outcroppings.
Dan Steeves’ Top 3 Wines
1. 2011 Raventos i Blanc “De La Finca” (Day 12): Beautiful acidity with complex layered nutty and toffee flavours with an exceptional finish.
2. 2015 Gruber Roschitz Chardonnay TBA (Day 23): Great balance for being lusciously sweet, with mouthwatering acidity and an incredibly long and lingering finish.
3. 2015 Schug Carneros Pinot Noir (Day 13): Beautiful fruits with powerful structural elements that showcases the value that New World Pinot Noir can offer.
DARK HORSE – 2012 Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino (Day 2): The later wines are fresher in my memory, but this was a beautiful bottle.
Cork Rating: 7/10 (Score bumped by the awesome shade of blue on the metal cap.)
My Top 3 Wines
1. 2011 Raventos i Blanc “De La Finca” (Day 12): Just a clear notch above the rest in terms of complexity, structure, power and soul. A true emotive experience.
2. 2015 Krutzler Eisenberg Reserve Blaufränkisch (Day 14): So effortlessly refined, luxurious yet precise, an eye-opening reason why you should all be drinking more Blaufränkisch.
3. 2015 Stuhlmuller Vineyards Chardonnay (Day 21): California Chardonnay is largely responsible for giving itself its own reputation for blowsy, overoaked, overripe, overblown wines, but bottles like this show why everyone made such a fuss about it in the first place.
DARK HORSE – 2016 Bella Sparkling Rose “Westbank” (Day 1): This showed me something that I hadn’t yet seen in Canadian wine; I can still vividly picture its live-wire energy. It was our first bottle and I remember it more than most of the others.
The fact that three generally like-minded wine lovers picked nine completely different wines to round out their podiums after all zeroing in on the same winner gives you some indication of the overall quality of the wines in this calendar. The diversity of great bottles in this 24-day span has been phenomenal.
Merry Christmas from my family to yours!!
There’s not much time or space left to talk about bottle #24, which was the De Venoge Cordon Bleu Brut Select NV Champagne, an appropriately celebratory finish on the night before Christmas. That ends up being a blessing in disguise, as my bottle was not showing I expect it should have. It was a VERY dark gold coming out of the bottle and had almost no mousse or carbonation to speak of, smelling heavily of dulce de leche, Kraft caramels and hot sandpaper and tasting flat and roasted and bitter, like coffee left too long on the burner. Blowtorched black jellybeans, soggy parchment and molasses rounded out a Guinness-like flavour profile. If I had to guess, I would say this cork didn’t sufficiently hold its seal as the wine sat for some time after bottling but before sale; it’s not as ragingly faulted as my unlucky Brunello on Day 2, but since I highly doubt it’s in condition, I’m not going to score it. I will instead set it aside and remember the other remarkable bottles that I enjoyed so much, and hope that we’ll get to do it all again next year. Until then, thanks for following along!
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Close-following Pop & Pour adherents (if such things exist) will have been waiting for this moment for a couple of months. In my last write-up about the tremendous Euro-tacular wine offerings of Cellar Direct, I teased that the two Italian reds going head-to-head in that review were not the only bottles (or colours) from that country that Cellar Direct had sent my way, but I opted to hold back the indigenous Italian white wine from that set so that it could shine in an all-white duet in a later post. Well, here we are, and tonight’s 100% Arneis lead-off hitter is joined in the batting order by a rather mysterious and off-grid white Burgundy (to the extent that anything Burgundy can be considered off-grid), each bottle a tantalizing find that proves both that even famous regions have hidden values and that you often need some expert assistance to find that value needle in the prestige haystack. If Cellar Direct is anything, they are that Old World value sherpa, leading you to consistent quality at credible price points over and over again. Their streak of never sending me a bad bottle lives on. Read the rest of this entry »
cabernetdialectic (Raymond Lamontagne)
Dan Steeves
Peter Vetsch
tylerderksen
pop & pour 